244. GOLD REPEATER POCKET WATCH BY LOUIS ARMAND SWITZERLAND, CIRCA 1900

A rare museum-quality gold pocket watch with quarter repeater, chronograph and full calendar complication, executed by the Swiss watchmaker Louis Armand circa 1900. The model was produced specifically for the Russian market, as evidenced by the calendar indications in the Russian language, the use of the Russian hallmarking system, and the original fitted case bearing the mark of a St Petersburg retailer.

The watch case and original chain are crafted in gold of 56 zolotniks according to the Russian assay system, corresponding to 14K gold. The movement incorporates a quarter repeater, chronograph, calendar with date, day of the week and month indications, as well as a moon phase display. Such a combination of complications is characteristic of bespoke high-grade watches intended for an affluent clientele at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.

The dial is designed in the classical tradition of the Swiss watchmaking school, with Roman numerals, subsidiary dials and a harmoniously balanced layout of indications. Of particular note is the calendar in Russian, confirming the watch’s intended destination within the Russian Empire. The inner case back is engraved with medals from the International Exhibition of 1895, attesting to the prestige of the maker and the recognised quality of his production. The individual watch number “1845” is engraved on the case. The inscription “Locle” indicates manufacture in Le Locle, one of the principal centres of Swiss horological production.

The watch is preserved in its original fitted case bearing the mark of the St Petersburg retailer Pyotr Arkadyevich Chuksanov, whose shop was located in the Gostiny Dvor along the Zerkalnaya Line. The survival of the original case and chain significantly enhances the historical, collectible and museum value of this ensemble.

Hallmarks: Russian assay mark for gold of 56 zolotniks; “14K” designation; “Locle” mark; individual number “1845”; engraved medals from the International Exhibition of 1895 on the inner case back; retailer’s mark “P.A. Chuksanov, St Petersburg” inside the original case.

Dimensions: Diameter 58.7 mm; height 1.84 mm. Chain length 30 cm.

Weight: Watch 144 g. Chain 27.8 g.

Condition: Good. The case and chain show an even, attractive patina, without deformation. The covers close tightly. The dial is well preserved, with no significant losses to enamel or printing. The movement is in working condition.

Provenance: Private collection.